[双语]澳洲葡萄酒变味了
Venus发布于 2009/4/30 16:35:11 | 12681 次阅读  [][][]
文章来源:FTchina 关键词: 双语 澳洲 葡萄酒
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原作者:英国《金融时报》撰稿人简希丝•罗宾逊(Jancis Robinson)

澳大利亚葡萄酒发生了很奇怪的事情。就在澳大利亚出产的优质葡萄酒越来越多之时,它的价格和声誉却一落千丈。葡萄酒时尚和其它时尚一样变幻不定,但澳大利亚葡萄酒从被尊敬到被唾骂的速度却相当不同寻常。

Something very strange has happened to Australian wine. While more and more fine Australian wine is being produced, its fortunes and reputation have plummeted. Fashions in wine, just as in everything else, come and go but the speed with which Australia has moved from being revered to being reviled is quite remarkable.

在整个1990年代,澳大利亚葡萄酒的声誉持续稳步利好,以至于全球葡萄酒出口商都将澳大利亚人视为无坚不摧的英雄。在那个十年,澳大利亚的葡萄酒出口增加了十倍。到2004年,澳大利亚超过法国,成为英国的葡萄酒主要供应商,而且似乎可以说,它看上去将取代意大利,成为向美国出口葡萄酒的最重要国家。

Throughout the 1990s Australia’s wine reputation continued to build so steadily that wine exporters around the world saw Australians as the all-conquering heroes.  Exports increased tenfold in that decade. It was as recently as 2004 that Australia overtook France as principal supplier of wine to the UK and, briefly, looked set to push Italy into second place as most important exporter of wine to the US.

但今天,英国和美国对澳大利亚葡萄酒的兴趣似乎已像艾丽斯泉(Alice Springs)中的水坑那样迅速干涸。在美国,澳大利亚葡萄酒是相对较新的品种,其受欢迎度下降的原因似乎是双重的。带着袋鼠标签的黄尾葡萄酒(Yellow Tail)惊人的成功,引发了太多模仿的、被称之为“牛马”品牌的葡萄酒,在低端市场,澳大利亚开始被视为无所不在的乏味之选。

But today, interest in Australian wine in both the UK and US seems to have evaporated as rapidly as a puddle in Alice Springs. In the US, where Australian wine is a relatively recent phenomenon, the reasons seem to be twofold. The staggering success of Yellow Tail, with its kangaroo label, spawned so many imitation “critter” brands, as they were known, that at the bottom end of the market, Australia came to be seen as ubiquitous and vapid.

在美国葡萄酒市场上游,澳大利亚曾短暂享有过一段无忧无虑的时光,当时影响力极大的评论家罗伯特·派克(Robert Parker)大力推荐了一系列不同品牌、专为美国消费者酿造的葡萄酒。这些葡萄酒通常都呈深黑色,由采摘非常晚的葡萄酿制,酒精度很高。进出口公司The Grateful Palate的丹·飞利浦斯(Dan Philips)是在这个Barossa Shiraz等葡萄酒跨太平洋贸易的主要推动者。这些葡萄酒中许多都好评如潮,它们令人好奇之处在于,它们中很多品种在自己的国家都并不出名,所以它们没有获得澳大利亚葡萄酒爱好者的支持,许多购买它们的美国人发现它们并不像预期那样好。

In the upper reaches of the US wine market, Australia enjoyed a brief period in the sun when the powerful critic Robert Parker espoused a series of quite different labels cooked up especially for American consumers. The wines were typically black as pitch, made from extremely late-picked grapes and notably alcoholic. Dan Philips of the import company The Grateful Palate was a prime mover in this trans-Pacific tide of Barossa Shiraz and the like. What was curious about these wines, many of which garnered rave reviews, was that so many of them were unknown in their homeland, so they had no support among Australian wine lovers, and many Americans who bought them found they did not perform as well as expected.

其结果是,杰伊·米勒博士(Dr Jay Miller)这样介绍他最近对澳大利亚葡萄酒的调查结论:“2009年1月,业界有一种看法,即澳洲葡萄酒在美国的市场面临严重威胁……在不到10年的时间里,这一市场已经从繁荣走向萧条,面临一个不确定的未来。”米勒是帕克在其有影响力的刊物The Wine Advocate上关于澳大利亚葡萄酒评论的继任者。

The result is that Dr Jay Miller, Parker’s successor as Australian wine reviewer for his influential newsletter The Wine Advocate, introduced his most recent survey of Australian wine thus: “In January 2009 there is a perception that the American market for Australian wine<

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